Remembering
BY EDWARD
CALLAGHAN with Annie Watt
photos by Rob Rich
For over half a century, Francesco Scavullo reigned
as one of the foremost fashion photographers in the world. This week the reign
came to an end.
Gone is the dapper gent in the sailor hat and
flashing smile. What remains is a legacy of extraordinary, iconic images that
shaped the world’s perception of beauty for decades – and made fortunes for the
magazines that carried his artfully lit cover subjects. Think "Cosmo
Girl" for one!
A native
New Yorker, Scavullo passed on joining the family hospitality business and set
out to capture beauty and glamour with his lens. Still in his 20’s, he scored
his first cover shoot for Seventeen Magazine – and a contract. His work
brought him to the attention of famed editors Carmel Snow and Anthony
Mazzola in rapid succession and new relationships that would carry on for
years.
When publishing legend Helen Gurley Brown
took over as Editor-in-chief of Cosmopolitan it didn’t take long for her
to get Scavullo on her team, beginning one of fashions most enduring and
profitable marriages – lasting for over 30 years.
Scavullo’s vision of the approachable, sexy
glamour girl jumped out at you from the newspaper stands and the supermarket
counters. Brown and Scavullo created the ultimate in inspirational images for
Brown’s "mouseburgers".
Scavullo is often credited for creating the supermodel
and for good reason – Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Iman, Naomi
Campbell are just a few of the faces he helped propel into world class
status.
It wasn’t just the fashion world that clamored
for his special touch. Royalty – real and the Hollywood version – were favorite
and favored subjects of his deft art. Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor,
Madonna, Michelle Pfeiffer, Diana Ross, Christopher Reeve, Brooke Shields even
the famed photographer, Robert Mapplethorpe were among those who
commissioned him for special portraits.
Almost 20 years ago, we had
the rare opportunity of seeing the master at work when we escorted one-time
model and then TV actress Erin Gray to his eastside townhouse that
functioned as both home and studio. Sean Byrne, his lifetime partner and
sittings editor, stylist and right hand, greeted us and escorted us to the
make-up room where clothes, accessories, et al were carefully laid out.
Waiting for us was the late Way Bandy –
at the time the wizard of glamour make-up with brushes and palette in hand –
fashion’s Monet! For over two hours, Bandy worked to achieve the perfection
that Scavullo sought while Byrne set, re-set then set again the lights and
props. From time to time, Scavullo would emerge from his study to check on the progress
and suggest changes.
The serenity was a total surprise to one used to the
hurly-burly at traditional photo shoots. But this was Scavullo, whose own manic
energy required such calm.
Finally, Scavullo pronounced all ready.
Positions were taken up by his tiny army. Snap, snap, snap. In less than 20
minutes it was over. Finis! The director thanked all, and returned to the quiet
of his study.
We later realized that this man, both
accomplished artist and world-class director – was the true master of light. A
manipulator of rays who could tap into his subject’s inner core and create
beauty.
Ivory tower artist, he wasn’t! A fixture on the
social scene he was a regular at Studio 54 and posh charity events uptown and
down. Keenly aware of the changes in society he continued to break new ground –
shooting a nude man – Burt Reynolds – for the first Cosmopolitan
centerfold – the shot seen ‘round the world! Later he broke the ultimate
fashion barrier, in shooting Beverly Johnson for the cover of Vogue,
the first ever-black model to appear on the cover.
Ground-breaking campaigns for Versace, Calvin
Klein, Valentino, and glorious covers for Harper’s Bazaar, Time, Life,
Glamour, Harper’s & Queen and Interview were among the
coups scored by Scavullo and Byrne.
Indeed just hours before his death from a heart
ailment he and Sean were preparing to head downtown to shoot CNN anchor Anderson
Cooper, son of his dear friend, Gloria Vanderbilt, when he felt
faint. Moments later he died – and so has an era.
Both the memorial service held at the Frank
Campbell Funeral Home and the solemn high mass celebrated the next day at the
glorious cathedral-like St. Jean Baptiste Church were packed with old friends
including: Christie Brinkley, Cornelia Guest, Eileen & Gerry Ford, Beth
Rudin de Woody, Marty Richards, Jackie Rogers, Helen Gurley & David Brown,
Debbie Dickenson, Carmen dell’Orefice, Dallas Boesendahl and Katie Ford.
Father Edward Beck, concelebrating with two other priests, spoke eloquently
– from first hand knowledge (having been photographed by Scavullo for the front
cover of his own book) about Scavullo’s brilliant mastery of his art.
"Step into the light, Father. Step into the light" he exhorted the
cleric at a spontaneous shoot in Central Park.
"Now he is in the light of his Heavenly Father", proclaimed Father Beck. And so he is!